4 day itinerary for a happy traveler in Cordoba, Argentina
If you’re in Argentina for a few short weeks, you might read or be told that Cordoba doesn’t really have much going on and you should skip altogether. Even hostel reviews say the same. So, is that true or nay?
I initially went to Cordoba to break a long trip from Puerto Iguazu to Bariloche. Didn’t really have any expectations on what’s supposed to be and arriving on a Sunday afternoon when everything was closed didn’t really help get a feeling of it.
Cordoba is very livable, it’s a city that moves on and doesn’t really care about tourists which is something I loved. It seemed much more authentic and it made me smile everyday. Now, it’s said that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, which means I’m definitely spoiled with having seen too much beauty cause I didn’t find Cordoba pretty. I did spend time with fellow travelers that found it very pretty and were sad to be leaving. Even met a guy who spent a month in Cordoba because he REALLY liked it.
Skip it? I’d say no, give it a go and get something out of your trip that isn’t particularly catered to tourists. Here’s my 4 day itinerary on how to keep yourself entertained and happy.
Day 1 in Cordoba
Arrive a day before or during the weekend if possible so you can enjoy the Feria de los Artisanes which is a lovely street fair showing off stands with handmade objects, art, live music, street artists and crowds of locals sipping their mate.
After you’ve checked in, go for a stroll in the market where everything happens – Plaza de San Marten and visit the Cathedral. Have a lomito (a steak sandwich with cheese and a fried egg, no easy on the stomach haha) on one of the benches there and look around, it’s very likely something will be going on.
If you have time, go to the 5 pm Bohemian Free Walking Tour organizing by Docta Tours and discover the city in a very laid-back rhythm. Ask your guide for a bar recommendation when you can kick back and have some wine or beer. La Bicicleta and Dada mini are great options if you don’t have a chance to go on the tour.
Day 2 in Cordoba
Sleep in a bit and join the 11 am Free walking tour which covers all the main sights in a little over 3 hours. If you want to do it by yourself, check out the itinerary here and replicate it whenever if you feel like it.
If you do the tour, you’ll probably be hungry afterwards and if you’re anything like me, the cravings for veggies and healthy food might have cornered you by now. Head to Sol y luna for a buffet of healthy stuff that made my heart sing. Weight your food and pay at the register where you might want to take a look at their home-made healthy cookies. Yum!
Take a coffee from the nearby Alquiles Cafe where you will definitely enjoy your coffee. These guys make a mean latte and also have a co-working space downstairs if you want to catch up on social media or get some work done. If you want to enjoy the weather outside head to the Paseo del buen pastor to hangout with the locals. If you’re there before 8 pm you can also check out their artsy exhibition and the nearby interesting red church.
Feel like a drink? You can head down to the Guemes neighborhood and check out any of the cool looking bars with terraces or get a bottle of wine (drinking is not allowed on the streets so be creative with your disguise, I suggest coca-cola bottles) and go to Piazza Italia for some local vibes. People get together here to dance, drink mate, hang out and enjoy the evening.
Eat in any of the places you’ll see in Guemes, good food is everywhere in Cordoba, just make sure you’re going to a relatively crowded place.
If it’s Monday or Tuesday, you end the evening at Maria Maria, the to-go place for weekday fun. Live music starts after midnight, stop by and check the atmosphere to be sure.
Day 3 in Cordoba
If you’ve spent it at Maria Maria, wake up slowly and stop at Cafe del Alba for an old-fashion yet cool vibe. It’s a bookshop cafe that serves typical Argentinian breakfast and sandwiches. Coffee is -ish, maybe a tea?
If you can have an early start, go to Cafe del Alba and then head out to the sierras outside of the city. It’s best if you stop the day before at the bus terminal and check the bus schedule. You can go to Alta Gracia, La Cumbrecita and Villa General Belgrano. The sierras are basically smaller mountains with specific vegetation and the tight curves you’ll be travelling on can make you a bit dizzy, but the views are very pretty. I
If you’re not sure you have enough time, I’d say skip Villa General Belgrano and keep the first two options. Alta Gracia is the closest to Cordoba and you can see one of Che Guevara’s museums there. I skipped it entirely because the weather was terrible and the car was comfortable.
Both General Belgrano and La Cumbrecita are lovely little villages founded by German immigrants in the 1940s. Extremely photogenic and quiet in off-season, I can imagine it fills up quickly in the summer. La Cumbrecita is a tad bigger and it’s way hillier so you can go for a long walk before feasting in one of its restaurants. It’s going to be a fun experience, eating in a German-named restaurant while being served in Spanish and probably picking an Argentinian dish.
Day 4 in Cordoba
Eat your breakfast at La Bruncheria and if it’s Wednesday you can check out any museum in the city for free. If it’s not, the museum are very affordable anyway so head to Palace Fereira or any from the list here.
If you’re about to leave the city, this is a good time to do some research online and make sure to buy your ticket out of Cordoba. If you have the time, I strongly recommend you check the prices in person at the bus terminal as the prices online are higher because the credit card charges are incredibly high. This has saved me several times hundreds of pesos or around 30 euros per ticket bought. Pam pam, you’re welcome.
Load up on a last milanesa (a sort of schnitzel sandwich, it can be chicken or beef) or lomito before you head out of time and make sure you stock up on some alfajores (big yummy biscuits filled with dulce de leche or chocolate or a bunch of other delicious stuff) for the road.
Anything else I missed and you loved? Let me know!